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FORGING OR PULLING ON THE LEASH:
Forging - The Most Common Complaint
by Geoff Stern
Geoff lives in Brookline MA and is a member of several dog training and breed clubs including:
New England Dog Training Club
Charles River Dog Training Club
Yankee Golden Retriever Rescue
Australian Shepherd Club of New England
Forging is one of the chief complaints students have in Beginners classes. Although as problems go, I'd rather have a dog who forges than one who lags. Lagging can be a sign of shyness (often caused by an overbearing handler). Forging is a sign that the dog has some spunk, zeal, energy. With all those things going for you, it's just a matter of rechanneling all that enthusiasm into a happy dance
Collars and their role in good heeling
Collar choice is very controversial in dog training, so make your own informed decision after doing your homework by reading books and articles and talking to owners and trainers. Do what's right for you and your dog. Training should be a positive experience for you both.
Dogs who pull against a traditional choke collar -- the shmancy term for this is "opposition reflex" -- are likely to hurt themselves as well as you. Moreover, once they start their game of I-wanna-be-in-the-Iditarod, there's not much you can do except hang on for dear life and limb. Pulling back or jerking (to correct the dog's forging) only makes thing worse, increasing or reinforcing the opposition reflex. The more you pull, the more the dog pulls. The more the dog pulls, the more you pull. (Several wars have started that way.)
The pinch collar (AKA prong collar, German collar, self-correcting collar) has a different feel for the dog, and this is why some trainers actually think the pinch collar is gentler and kinder than a choker. The pinch collar is meant to simulate a mother dog's (bitch's) nips on her puppy's neck. Few dogs will pull against a pinch collar.
If you decide to get a pinch collar, make sure your obedience instructor shows you how to fit it properly and how to use it for collar corrections. The technique is a little different from what you do with a choker. I've found that the smaller width ones work better than the big, earth-mover sizes. Also, keep in mind that, like a choker, a pinch collar is for training only. Don't leave it on the dog when he's romping or in his crate.
When not to use a pinch collar
Some dogs who are aggressive (for example, defensive-aggressive if they've been mistreated) might react badly to the pinch. This is more likely with guardian breeds with whom someone has tried to do junkyard protection training. This is, of course, no slight to the breed, just the unfortunate result of uninformed and perhaps poorly motivated trainers.
If you're squeamish about a pinch collar -- and, admittedly, they look medievally grotesque. There are some alternatives. You can try a cord-style choker (instead of a chain). Some dogs respond better to a thin, parachute cord choker. Why? Who knows - dogs are dogs. Or you can try a head harness (Halti, Gentle Leader, etc.) Although in my opinion, I think these do more to restrain a dog than to retrain him. However, do what ever works for you!
You can also try various different training techniques that don't involve force corrections. These can be very time-consuming and require at least as much effort, patience, persistence, and luck as more traditional methods. See your obedience instructor for more ideas and a training program.
Severe forging is very frustrating and hard to deal with. This is why even the most gentle, inducive-minded trainers fall back on the hoary, old trick of the turn-and-go or sneak-away correction. (An obedience instructor will probably be able to demonstrate this to you.) Just one caution -- again, in my opinion, the turn-and-go is a correction for severe forging or pulling, not a technique to teach heeling.